TEXIAN
Guide
Book
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By
Dick
Boone
San
Antonio Living History Association
Texian
Coordinator - 2003
Texian guide book
Index
1.
Texians, who they were….
2.
Their clothing
3.
Weapons
4.
Necessary accessories
5.
Sutler’s list
6.
Basic reading list, by Charles M. Yates
1. Texians
The groups of men who fought and died at the San
Antonio de Valero
2. Their
Clothing
There
was no standardized “outfit” among the Texians, so it is very difficult
to set any hard and fast rules as to how any individual Texian should
dress. The following are some examples
of what would be acceptable for anyone attempting to prepare a “costume”. Please do not be put off by the use of the
word costume as it simply means an assemblage of clothing worn to project a
certain image – in this case, the image of a man living in 1836 in San Antonio
de Bejar.
Starting
with footwear, remember that only leather was used to make footwear
during this time period. The most common
type of shoe worn during the 1830s was a brogan or a boot. Brogans generally had a squared toe, but
round-toed boots were becoming popular.
There was no boot polish available at the
The
material most commonly used for trousers was probably wool,
although some leather or cotton canvas and linen was used as well. Remember that all the events portrayed by the
San Antonio Living History Association (SALHA) occurred during the winter of
1835-36. This was one of the coldest
winters on record.
A shirt
was more than just a shirt. The “tail”
of a man’s shirt would extend downward to his knees and serve as a shirt during
the day and a nightshirt to sleep in.
How often it got washed depended upon how many shirts you owned
(normally no more than two or three – often only one). This note on washing of clothing applied to
all clothing items. One rarely had the
time to devote to washing and drying clothing, nor were there usually any
facilities for bathing. During this time
period, you were more concerned about mere survival than you were about
personal hygiene. The most common shirt
materials are linen, osnaburg, or muslin.
Although white was the most common color, it is easy to see that shirts
didn’t stay white for very long. Some
men dyed their shirts, not only to please their individual taste in clothing
style, but also to hide the sweat and dirt stains. Remember there was no Ritz Dyes in 1836. If you want to dye a shirt, use pecan hulls
or some other locally grown plant product as the basis for your dye. Boil the shells, etc. in an old pot until
you have enough dye, then add the shirt and continue boiling. I would suggest at least a couple of washings
before wearing a shirt that has been dyed in this manner, so that you don’t
wind up dyeing yourself as well. Shirts
did not have pockets, and they didn’t button up the front. You slipped the shirt over your head, and
either left the neck open or closed the “collar” with the one or two buttons
provided, or used a drawstring and tied it in a bow. Then you may or may not wear a “stock”, which
was the 1800’s version of a tie, and was worn when one wanted to “dress
up”.
During
warm weather, most men wore a waistcoat, or vest, as an outer
garment. Many wore one at all times,
except while sleeping. It has been said that many men would venture out in
public without a hat before going out without their vest, as they considered
not having something over their shirt/nightshirt like being out and about in
their underwear. Waistcoats were
generally made of wool, cotton canvas, linen, or leather. Buttons would be pewter, wood, or horn. No pockets.
Dark brown, burgundy, red, black, and navy were the most commonly used
colors, but those who could afford it occasionally used patterned materials.
Coats came in a variety of styles
and lengths, depending upon where the individual came from. But by far the most practical and commonly
worn coat at the
If
you’re a Scot, you probably will choose to wear a Highland Bonnet. If you’re French, you may want to wear a Voyageur’s
Cap. Otherwise you’ll probably
choose to top off you ensemble with a forage cap or a brimmed hat of some kind.
The forage cap was very popular, especially for winter wear. It could be made of wool or leather and could
be had with fur on the outside of the cap, or on the inside for additional warmth. Top Hats were a very popular form of
headwear among townsfolk. Farmers and
some preachers seemed to prefer the broader brimmed hats with a lower crown,
either round or flat topped. Winter
hats were primarily wool felt, while warm weather hats were of straw. Nearly all men wore a hat of some kind,
primarily for protection from the elements.
Any of the styles mentioned above are appropriate for an1836 reenactor. You could choose an animal skin for a hat,
but they are hot, and often smelly, and even David
Crockett preferred other styles of headgear.
3. Weapons
All
cannons, muskets, rifles, shotguns, and pistols in use during the 1830s used black
powder, and this is the powder used by all reenactors
of the SALHA. The ignition systems for
all these weapons (except cannons) are either flintlock or percussion caps.
The flintlock
musket was possibly one of the most common weapons used during this time
period. The most common musket in use
during the 1830s was the “Brown Bess”, a British military surplus
weapon, which was quite easily and inexpensively obtained. This is a 75-caliber weapon; 54” long and
weighs 9 lbs. The French Charleville (also military surplus), which is a
69-caliber weapon, is 59 ½” long, and weighs 10 ¼ lbs. Both are smooth bore (like a shotgun), have
no rear sight and a very poor front sight that doubled as a locking lug for
attaching a bayonet to the barrel. The effect of the large lead ball they fire
was devastating to anyone within their effective range, which for both is
approximately 70-80 yards. These long,
cumbersome, heavy weapons are best suited to the close quarters, open field
formation style of combat developed in
The rifle
was usually the first choice of men who depended upon their weapon to protect
themselves and their families, and to put meat on the table. The rifle is much more accurate than the
musket because it has a rifled barrel and much better sights. Some, depending upon the ability of the
shooter and the quality of the weapon, are accurate to 200 yards. There are some 54-caliber rifles available,
but 50 or 45 caliber rifles are the most common now. Even 40, 36, and 32-caliber rifles were made,
but these smaller bore rifles were considered more for women and young boys,
although some men used them for hunting small game, such as squirrels and
rabbits. This assortment of rifles could
be any length, from 43” to 57” and weigh anywhere from 6 ½ to 9 ¼ lbs. Although the most common ignition system on
the frontier was the flintlock, the percussion cap was becoming quite popular
in much of the
A shotgun
was a very popular weapon with men who hunted for meat to supplement their
diet, as it could be used with either shot or a single ball. It was, and still is, an outstanding close
range defense weapon, and was the last weapon Col. Travis fired just before his
death at the
The pistols
used during the 1830s were primarily single-shot guns. Although a few multiple barreled weapons were
made, they were not very commonly used.
Unlike rifles and shotguns, pistols were purely as a tool of
self-defense. Once again, not everyone
owned a pistol. If you owned a firearm
(and most men did), it was either for protection or for hunting, and in most
cases a musket, rifle, or shotgun is far superior to a handgun because you can
stop “the enemy” before he is close enough to hurt you – IF you fire first, or
he misses, and you do not. Effective
range of a handgun is very limited – no more than 30 yards in the hands of an
experienced shooter (less for the average man). For those who want to own a pistol, they
have the same ignition systems as rifles – either flintlock or percussion
cap. Revolvers were being developed at
the time, but were not yet available.
If you decide you need a handgun, consider how you will carry it before
you buy. Holsters were not readily
available. As always, pay close
attention to the details. Stay away from
adjustable sights, blued metal, and lacquered wood.
A tomahawk
is an extremely useful tool, and was carried by many men who lived on the
frontier. In addition to its ability to
cut wood for fires and building temporary shelters, quartering large game
animals when hunting, and a variety of other useful tasks, it was a very
effective weapon. Sometimes, since a
tomahawk and a large belt knife were fairly interchangeable on the jobs they
could perform, a man might carry one or the other. However, men were more prone
to carry both, and more than one knife. Choices of tomahawks is relatively simple, as
most produced today are suitable for reenacting. Once again, pay attention to details, and
buy one that “looks old”. Hand forged
tomahawk heads are inexpensive and plentiful.
As
simple as buying a tomahawk can be, the purchase of a knife can become
very complicated. Although the “Bowie
Knife” (several styles are available) was very popular by 1835, and was the
belt knife issued to the New Orleans Grays, not everyone owned one. And even
those who did often owned other knives as well.
The “Arkansas Toothpick” was also a very popular style of knife
at the time, as was the “butcher knife”.
Jim Bowie used a butcher knife before owning a “Bowie Knife”. Back to details: stainless steel did not
exist in 1835. Shun it like the
plague. Knives were hand forged of
either
4. Necessary Accessories
This section will be
dedicated to all the little “extras” you will need to be successful in your
role as a reenactor.
First off, in the 1830s you would have needed a
powder horn or flask to carry your personal supply of powder. As a SALHA reenactor
you must be aware that powder horns and flasks will NOT be allowed to
contain any powder during reenactments because of safety concerns. We use paper cartridges during all
reenactments, so there is no need to have powder in your horn or flask
anyway. One safety note to remember is
that you must NEVER pour powder from a horn or flask directly into a
weapon! The results could be
disastrous! In the 1830s, you may have
carried a very small, additional container (horn or flask) filled with fine
grain powder, purely for priming the pan on your flintlock. I have never employed this technique since I
have found that all I need for priming my pan is a small amount of powder saved
from my “cartridge” after I charge my weapon.
In fact, I don’t even own a priming horn or flask.
While we are discussing extra items for your
weapons, you need:
1. A vent
pick and
whisk (flintlocks) or nipple pick (percussion weapons). This is a short length of stiff wire used to
clean the vent or nipple hole.
2. A flash guard (usually
brass) attached to your weapon’s lock, to protect both you and anyone next to
you during firing. This is a SALHA requirement!
3. A leather frizzen cover for
flintlocks – also a SALHA requirement.
4. An extra flint, flint
leather or lead, and a period correct screwdriver, for flintlock weapons.
5. A spare nipple and a nipple
wrench for percussion weapons.
6. A capper of some type to
hold percussion caps.
As you progress in your career as a reenactor, you will discover a lot more “extras” that you need,
but you will need the items listed above immediately. One other item I consider essential is a good
cleaning kit. You will have to clean
your weapon thoroughly each time it is fired – unless you are really fond of
rust. The cleaning kit normally stays
back in camp or at home. EXCEPTION: When SALHA does more than one reenactment in
a day, bring your cleaning supplies and clean your weapon between the “acts”. This will help you avoid misfires.
Personal items you will need
include, but are not limited to:
1. A spoon – can be metal,
horn, or wood. Often this was all that
was carried as you already had a knife, and a fork was not really a necessity.
2. A tin plate and/or bowl made
of wood or tin.
3. A tin cup. (If you are traveling light, this and a spoon
might be all you would have.)
4. A fire starting kit – flint,
steel, and some form of charcloth and/or tinder (keep
these items in a tin to ensure the tinder stays dry and you have everything
when you need it.
5. A haversack (usually made of
canvas) to carry these items, plus foodstuffs (jerky, hardtack, etc.).
6. A canteen – either tin, wood, or gourd.
Later on, you may want to add a sewing kit (for
emergency clothing repairs, or to make yourself a new pair of moccasins); a
fishing kit (just hooks and line) to have some variety in your menu when
possible, and to make your jerky last longer; a net hammock (to get you off the
ground, and away from things that crawl, and sting or bite, while sleeping (if
there are any trees available). Just
remember one thing – you must be able to carry every part of your reenacting
kit wherever you go. That’s the way it
was done in the 1830s. IF you were
fortunate enough to travel on horseback rather than “shanks mare” (on foot),
you could carry more “stuff”, but not much.
Did you ever wonder how the cowboys in the movies managed to carry a
coffee pot, a large iron skillet, plate, knife, fork, spoon, cup, beans, bacon,
flour, metal grate for the fire, and don’t forget the coffee – all in one side
of their saddlebag? It all had to fit in
one side because the other side was filled with their extra clothes, and at
least 1000 rounds of ammunition. If you
believe any of this actually happened…. have I got a deal for you!
5. SUTLERS
LIST
This is a listing of some of the companies that carry goods you will need to assemble your Texian outfit. This is certainly not an all-inclusive list, nor is the list in any order of preference, but it should provide a good starting point.
1.
Dixie Gun Works
Guns and
general merchandise. Huge catalog available for
$5.
2.
Jas
Townsend & Son, Inc.
General
merchandise.
3.
Smoke
& Fire Co.
General
merchandise.
4.
Panther
Primitives
Tents and
general merchandise.
5.
Smiling
Fox Forge
6.
C&D
Jarnagin
Primarily
for their tinware.
7.
Log
Cabin Shop
8.
Four
Season's Tentmasters
9.
Gohn Bros
10. Texas Sutler
Later on, you may want to add a sewing kit (for emergency clothing repairs, or to make yourself a new pair of moccasins); a fishing kit (just hooks and line) to have some variety in your menu when possible, and to make your jerky last longer; a net hammock (to get you off the ground, and away from things that crawl, and sting or bite, while sleeping (if there are any trees available). Just remember one thing – you must be able to carry every part of your reenacting kit wherever you go. That’s the way it was done in the 1830s. IF you were fortunate enough to travel on horseback rather than “shanks mare” (on foot), you could carry more “stuff”, but not much. Did you ever wonder how the cowboys in the movies managed to carry a coffee pot, a large iron skillet, plate, knife, fork, spoon, cup, beans, bacon, flour, metal grate for the fire, and don’t forget the coffee – all in one side of their saddlebag? It all had to fit in one side because the other side was filled with their extra clothes, and at least 1000 rounds of ammunition. If you believe any of this actually happened…. have I got a deal for you!
6.
Texian Legacy Association
By Charles M. Yates
I've been asked several times to recommend books on the subject of
the
Revolution which would be helpful for
reënactors and living historians. In order to present the best historical interpretations possible,
reading about and studying the period are mandatory. The problem is that in
today's hectic world, it's hard to wade through the
abundance of books and articles on the subject available without some sort of
starting place. I should point out that this is not a list of the only books
necessary to read to understand the period. It is not an ending point; it is a
beginning point. A great deal happened in
I, also, realize that many fine books have been left off of this
list and, no doubt, one of your favorites is among them. It is not an insult to
you or the author that your book isn't on the list, so don't send me nasty
emails before you read the criteria listed below!
The books on the following list have been selected with a specific
set of criteria in mind. The first criteria requirement is that the list is
limited to non-fiction books concerning
Number 11: The
Number 10: The Magnificent Barbarians. Little Told Tales of the
Number 9: A Revolution Remembered. The Memoirs and Selected Correspondence of Juan N. Seguín, edited by Jesús F. de la Teja.
This is a wonderful book to help understand what the long established Tejano
families went through during the turbulent years of 1835 to 1846. The whole
story of Juan Seguín is seldom told and this book
goes a long way to correcting that.
Number 8: The
Number 7: Texans in Revolt: The
Number 6: With Santa
Anna in Texas: A Personal Narrative of the Revolution, by
Jose Enrique de la Peña, 1997, Texas A&M
University Press. De la Peña provides us with a unique view inside Santa Anna's
army. He is not hesitant in his praise or condemnation of his fellow officers
and his analysis of the Texas Campaign. He, also, describes in detail the
beauty of the land and farms as well as the sufferings of the average Mexican
soldado. There were many facets to the Texas Revolution and this account helps
clarify a few of the lesser known or visited facets.
Number 5: The Day of San Jacinto,
by Frank X. Tolbert, 1959, McGraw-Hill Book
Company, Inc. Frank Tolbert was a newspaper man and this book is written
as a newspaper man would write it: as a
story. It's well researched and accurate for its time. It's a first rate, fun
read for young people or adults. This book is out of print, but should be
available through any major library.
Number 4. A Time to Stand by Walter Lord,
1978, Univ of
Number 3. Blood
of Noble Men: The
Number 2. Three Roads to the
Number 1. The
Texian Iliad, by Stephen L. Hardin, 1994,
Many new discoveries concerning
Sic Semper Texanus.
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